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Many towns have their own plaza de toro, and its fun to travel around Spain going from bullring to bullring to check out their distinct differences. These hulking stone structures are truly a work of art in themselves, and they can often be seen from quite far away elsewhere in the villages due to their size. The ring in Sevilla is truly a beauty with it’s colorfully painted gold trim and Moorish detailing. Madrid’s plaza is a stone behemoth with incredible arches that are awesome in scale, as well. Smaller towns may have rings that are slightly less ornate, but beautiful nonetheless. Matador garb is also interesting to check out as it is very colorful and flamboyant and also has a rich history in design.

Going to a corrida, as bullfights are known in Spain, is a spectacle that is not easily forgotten by those who see it. If you can put aside your feelings about the politics of harming animals for game, then I highly recommend you check one out. The local plazas del toro (bullrings) themselves are a marvel in architecture and worth the trip even if your’re squeamish about the fight. You can even visit them for a nominal charge when no bullfights are happening.

A few years ago, I visited the plaza in Malaga, and one courageous matador actually got on his knees in front of the bull and demanded it charge him.  The animal did not hesitate to take him up on his offer, and the man did not raise himself from the ground as he deftly used his cape to guide the bull to skim passed his head within several inches. Of course, that elicited shouts of “Ole!” from the crowd. 

There is a distinct ritual that is followed as part of the event, but at the finish, the bull is typically killed and if the matador has shown a particular level of valor and exhibitionism, the crowd requests him to take a “trophy” in memory of the event. Simply put, this means that he will slice the ear off of the dead beast. Some matadors who are novices will keep the ear as a memento, others may bestow it on a particular charming lady in the audience. Nothing like an oozing bull ear to get a lady all hot and bothered, eh?

Other toreros are not so lucky, and at the very same event we did see one fellow get a good goring in the belly. He was picked up off the ground like a cartoon character, but he was thankfully unharmed. The thing about a bullfight is that you really don’t know what is going to happen in the end.

In person, a bullfight is not nearly as gory or brutal as people make it out to be. It’s amazing that something that started back in the days of the Romans and Greeks can still be happening in modern day Spain. If I haven’t mentioned it before, Spaniards are die-hard traditionalists and are hard-pressed to give up their history. So, if you envision a little bit of a Hemingway-esque adventure in your trip to Spain, you won’t be disappointed with a trip to the bullfights. Bring your camera, as its something you’ll want to tell the grandkids about some day.

Granted bullfighting is not everyone’s cup of tea, but in Spain it is an ancient sport with deep roots and a passionate following by Spaniards. It is considered the fiesta nacional–the national sport–and has been experiencing renewed interest over the years.

There are typically a number of matches to see in one sitting. The more novice toreros (bullfighters) go first and you work your way up to the experienced matador, who is essentially the dude that everyone is there to see. The rock star, if you will. The crowds tend to be lively and you’ll hear them shouting out their random opinions on their showmanship to the matadors.  If the the crowd feels the matador shows no cojones, then they’re going to let him hear about it. This, of course, eggs many fighters to really push the envelope with regards to acts of bravery (or utter insanity, depending on how you look at it).

Granada is a fun place for a corrida, because there is a snack break in the middle where you can relax in a sort of American version of a half-time. Vendors will be selling authentic Cuban cigars (which are legal in Spain), tasty bocadillos (sandwiches) and shots of aguardiente–a hard liquor that Spaniards dip their cigars into before taking a puff.

Ronda’s bullring is one of the oldest and most famous in Spain, and most consider it the holy grail of the sport. Fighting there is like playing to a sold-out crowd at Madison Square Garden–it’s legendary. There is also a small museum in the building that is dedicated to the sport, and you can learn about Ronda’s two most famous bullfighting families–Romero and Ordonez–who are still active and heralded in the community centuries later.

These days, you can buy your tickets in advance on the internet. However, I recommend you go to the taquilla (ticket window) and do it the old-fashioned way for the pure experience of it. You’ll have your choice of seating usually, and this is a very critical decision that you need to make that will affect your level of comfort as a spectator for the entire event. There are two types of seating–sol (sun) and sombra (shade). If you don’t mind roasting in the hot sun on a hard stone seat, by all means go for the cheap seats. If sweating is not your thing, ask for sombra–and be ready to pay a higher price for your comfort. Now, one money saving bit of advice is that if you do notice that the bullfight will have low attendance (such as when the bullfighters are not well known), you can buy the cheapest seats available and simply move yourself to the better seats with no qualms. Tickets can run anywhere from just a few dollars up to $50 or more depending on the season.

Ticket Giveaway: Mates of State at the Granada - D Magazine
Ticket Giveaway: Mates of State at the GranadaD Magazine... stuff on their Myspace page and are dying to get into that show at the Granada tomorrow night. Well, good news. We have a pair of tickets to giveaway. ...and more »

Snoop Dogg pursues Coronation Street role - BBC News
Snoop Dogg pursues Coronation Street roleBBC NewsSnoop, who has followed the soap for 11 years, believed that Granada TV producers had responded with interest. A spokeswoman for Granada said: "He's ...and more »

Arts & Lectures Announces New Season Lineup - Santa Barbara Independent
Santa Barbara IndependentArts & Lectures Announces New Season LineupSanta Barbara IndependentAmong the already-announced bookings are Paul Taylor Dance Company at the Granada (Nov. 17), Ornette Coleman at Campbel Hall (Nov. 5), Steve Martin with the ...

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